How to Install an IKEA Farmhouse Sink

An IKEA farmhouse sink is a large ceramic sink with a deep basin suitable for washing large items. Given the extra deep basin, the sink usually requires the removal or modification of the kitchen cabinet front. You can purchase a single basin or a double basin IKEA farmhouse sink. Although a double basin sink has two drains, the installation is not much different. However, if you did purchase the double basin sink, purchase a double basin plumbing kit instead of a single basin plumbing kit. This will ensure you have enough hardware to install the plumbing for both sinks.

Difficulty:Moderately EasyCardboardUtility knifePainter's tapeMarkerSaber saw or reciprocating saw1-by-1-inch pine boardsWood screwsWood fileScrewdriverShimsSilicone caulkPlumber's puttySink strainerPipe wrenchMoist ragPlumbing kit, which includes a downpipe and trap1

Place the farmhouse sink face down on a piece of cardboard and trace the front of the sink onto the cardboard. Cut the cardboard out with a sharp utility knife. This gives you a template.

2

Tape the template onto the face of the cabinet with painter's tape where you plan to install the sink. Place the top edge of the template flush with the top edge of the countertop. Trace the template onto the front of the cabinet with a marker. Discard the template.

3

Cut along the traced lines of the cabinet with a saber saw or reciprocating saw. Discard the unwanted section of cabinetry.

4

Cut two pieces 1-by-1-inch piece of pine to the length of the opening you cut into the cabinet with the saber saw or reciprocating saw.

5

Secure the first pine board inside the cabinet along the inside edge of the opening. Secure the second piece of pine along the back wall of the cabinet at the same height. This will add extra support for the additional height of the sink. Secure the boards to the cabinet with wood screws and a screwdriver.

6

Place the sink into the opening. Place a level on top. If necessary, use a wood file to remove additional wood to allow for proper placement. In addition, if necessary, wedge shim under the supports.

7

Secure the underside of the sink to the cabinet with the supplied brackets and screws.

8

Place a bead of silicone caulk around the top edge and front edges of the sink.

9

Place a bead of plumber's putty around the hole in the sink basin and then secure the sink strainer to the sink basin with a pipe wrench. Wipe up excess putty with a moist rag. If your sink has two basins, repeat the process with the second basin.

10

Attach the S-trap to the drain extending up through the floor. Slide the downpipe extension into the S-trap. If you have a double-sink. Position the hole in the side of the extension pipe towards the other basin. Tighten the downpipe extension and the S-trap's compression nuts with your hand. If you have a double sink. Attach the elbow to the second downpipe and then attach the elbow extension to the elbow and to the hole in the first downpipe extension. Tighten the compression nuts with your hand.

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How to install R-22

Overloading a air-conditioning system can be as bad as undercharging. Refrigerant R-22 or Freon, a chemical gas oil cooling is used to load the air-conditioning systems of families. Freon R-22 has regulatory constraints which limit the use of possession and repair HVAC license certified technicians who have experience of charging and reclaiming it. To complete the following procedure, you must have a certification to demonstrate competence in dealing with Freon R-22 and you must have a license to purchase and store it.FIX: ModerateScrewdriversSocket set and key (if applicable) AC manualPliersGlovesSafety gogglesAC operations setFreon tankThermometer1-charging indicator service

Make sure that r-22 is correct to use to load the coolant system. Charging tank must be clearly marked, identify this type of coolant. Depending on the design of AC drives, use a screwdriver or key grip and remove the cover or AC utility inspection system. You'll see two line level valve system. Remove both caps with a pair of pliers and identify the major diameter valve fitting. This will be the service or the valve part.

2

Connect to the service line from Freon tank valve (yellow) on the recharge gauge AC variety. Open the tank valve. Temporarily open the regulator knob red playhead to eliminate all air line, and then close it. Close both valves. Connect the AC red tube gauge for the service, then tighten the fitting with a pair of pliers. Leave the lower the gauge, or blue tube, disconnected. It cannot be used. Don gloves and safety glasses for your protection.

3

Go into Control Panel and set the thermostat unit AC for maximum cooling and turn it on. Return to the AC units and give a slight turn to the regulator knob red indicator (the service). Open the regulator knob on Freon tank refill. See the service manual for the correct AC operating pressure design. It will be listed in psi or pounds per square inch, as for example 50 or 60 psi. Watch the red indicator as it approaches the pressure limit.

4

Close the valve of the shell when the correct pressure Freon has been reached. Put your hand on the line section. It should be cold to the touch, verifies that enough Freon entered the system. Close the regulator knob red service indicator. Turn off the AC unit in the control of the thermostat inside the House. Disconnect the hose from the red line service from the service installation on the AC line, then disconnect the yellow line from Freon tank.

5

Install the appropriate AC drive and reinsert the screws. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver, or taken and key. Turn the thermostat up cool and let the drive to use the Freon. Use a thermometer to check the AC vent temperature cooling. This will allow you to see if it coincides with the thermostat setting and service specifications manual.

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How to install a Handle into a bat

All that hammering takes a toll. You know you're working hard when it is necessary to replace the handle on a hammer. All that pounding took its toll, and doesn't help the occasional blow bend on the handle. Hammer handles rarely break completely in two-usually its a split, crack or missing piece that makes it unsafe to use the tool. Care is a new handle. Traditionally, the handles to hit tools such as Maces and axes were made of hickory wood, a prized for its hardness and strength.Cold chisel (optional): EasySawVise or punchHammerPower drill and 1/4-inch bit (optional) replacement wooden wedge2 handleHand rasp1 wedges1 metal

Position the hammer on a solid surface. Saw the residue of the old handle at the base of the head.

2

The hammerhead sled in a vise clamp, if available. Optionally place their heads on two solid objects with a space between them so that the eye of the handle is positioned above the open space.

3

The rest of the handle in the head with a hammer and cold chisel or punch. Practicing several holes in the wood with a little 1/4 inch to loosen the residue, if necessary.

4

Check the fit of the handle replacement and slipping into the eye. Use a RASP to cut wood, if necessary, but be careful not to remove too. The handle should be snug enough in the eye. Cut a thin, 2-inch deep vertical slot at the top of the handle where it fits in the eye if there is one.

5

The handle to stand on the floor. Slide the head on the handle as it will go. Insert a wooden wedge into the slot in the handle. Drive the wedge into the handle for pinched against the metal parts of the eye.

6

Position the hammer on a solid surface. Cut the top of the handle aligned with the top of the head.

7

Be the hammer again standing on the floor and drive the two wedges of metal at right angles to the wedge of wood. Check to make sure the head fits tightly before using the hammer.

If you swing and miss, there are rubber collars available that slid on handles hit tools such as hammers and axes that prevent the handle hitting hard objects. That facilitates a miss on the hands, too.

For non-traditionalist, handles fiberglass replacement can be installed. They usually come in kits complete with epoxy resin.

Wear eye protection when working with amazing tools.

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How to install a headstone marker

 You do not have to be a professional undertaker to install a headstone correctly. The installation of a headstone marker correctly is important to prevent the headstone to look or falling. A headstone marker correctly installed requires a foundation of concrete. Depending on the size, it may also require reinforcing. The dimensions of the Foundation are designed in proportion to the height and width of the headstone. With a few simple tools and materials, a headstone Foundation requires less than an hour to wear. Once the Foundation cement cures, setting the headstone marker is simple.Difficulty: moderately EasySpecifications of gravestoneTape tamperSand or gravelRebarRebar cutterWirePliersInstant measureShovelHand mixWheelbarrowTrowel1 self-leveling concrete

Measure the length and width of the headstone of base. Add 2 inches to each measure. Dig the hole of 18-inch deep for a headstone weighing 1,000 pounds or less. Dig a hole of 36 inches for a headstone that weighs between 1,000 and 2,500 pounds. A hole of 48 inches is required for a headstone between 2,500 and 6,000 pounds.

2

Compact to the bottom of the hole with a tamper-evident hand. Compact until that gives substance is no longer. For a soil that is not compact, find 6 extra inches of material from the bottom and add 6 inches of sand or gravel at the bottom.

3

Cut a piece of rebar for every foot of depth equal to the length of the hole, less than two inches. It's the "A" frames. Cut a piece of rebar for every foot of length. Cut these is equal to the depth of the hole, less than two inches - what are trusses "B". Round if the measure is not divisible by 12 inches. For example, a depth of 18 inches requires two bars of "A", even if it is not 2 feet deep. For each 2 feet in width, multiply the frames "A" and "B" by two. A hole is 18 inches in depth, 16 inches wide and 3 feet in length requires six "A" reinforcement and six bar "B".

4

The frame of "B" to divide by the width in feet. For example, for hole of 16 inches wide, rebar "B" divide by two, don't forget to round up the dimensions to the nearest foot. This calculation determines the number of groups of "B". Lay groups, reinforcement of "B" on the ground. Place the reinforcement of each parallel to the other group. The width of the hole to divide by the number of reinforcing bars in each group. The example above, the sum of the division is equal to 8 inches. The armatures of space in each group of 8 separate inches.

5

Divide the "A" frames evenly among the groups of rebar of "B". The depth of the hole to divide by the number of "A" bar of each group. This calculation determines the spacing between the frames of "A". Place the "A" rebar of each group through the frame of "B" of each group spaced perpendicular, according to the calculated amount. The "A" rebar to the frame of "B" at each intersection of wire. The effect is a grid of rebar for each group. Place the grids in the hole.

6

Self-leveling instant concrete cast the wheelbarrow. Mix the correct ratio of water in cement as specified by the manufacturer. Stir the mixture with a shovel until the concrete is consistently saturated. Fill the hole at halfway of concrete. Adjust grids of reinforcing to plumb up / down. Not supporting against them the wall of the hole. Fill in the rest of the hole with concrete and allow it to settle, level and heal.

7

The marker of gravestone on the foundation of the Centre. To do this, throw the marker behind the stone tablet and pushed it transfer until the corner bottom straddles the Foundation by 1 inch. Lift the top of the tombstone until the base rests on the Foundation. When the headstone is centered, 1 inch from the Foundation extends outside each side of the marker database.

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